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Newbie problems
 STARTT   Started by Verity Gregory   2018-01-08 11:59:09 +00:00   Comments: 19    Viewed: 1032

  1. Hi All,
    I very happily built my Startt kit up over the christmas break and was very excited to get started with 3D printing. There is a massive community out here and some great resources for trouble shooting and getting on in the world.

    However, as far as I can see I'm following the steps, setting up the slicer, leveling the bed and I just can't get it right. I don't want to waste filament and I don't want to give up just yet. Are there any long term Startt users with any pearls of wisdom? The first really successful print I had was to print some larger thumb wheels to help make bed leveling easier. They're working a treat.

    I'm trying to print some upgrades to make sure my belts are good and tight, my Y belt is perfect, but I'm worried my X is too loose and causing some issues. I have clicks in the extruder, and poor layers where it looks like not enough filament is being extruded through the hot end and creating what looks like a very weak and ugly print. I'm not expecting miricles from the Startt, but these are really bad.

    So I have tried to increase the temperature of the print, double check the bed isn't too high and squashing the print. I'm lost where to go next. My prints just look weak on the layers, the extruded material is thin and stringy creating messy top layers.

    My first go with the pre loaded files worked great until I didnt check the filament had free movement, rookie error. But they do print better than any STL I have downloaded and sliced, I am coming to the conclusion that my slicer settings aren't right. I have copied the settings from the calibration and printing videos from imakr, played with infil percentage and wall thicknesses. I must be missing a trick.

    What are other people's experiences?
    Verity Gregory, 2018-01-08 11:59:09 +00:00
  2. Dave brown
    Dave brown Member
    i'm a newbte too, not having any trouble only have to check distance between hot end and plate every 2 or 3 prints. my setting are as follows'
    layer height 0.2
    wall thickness 1
    bottom/ top thickness 1.2
    infill density 15
    printing temp pla 210
    dia 1.75
    flow 100
    retraction 3
    retraction speed 50
    print speed 40
    travel speed 120
    Dave brown, 2018-01-08 19:27:02 +00:00
    Verity Gregory and David White likes this.
  3. Hi Dave! Thanks for the pointers. I’m off to give it a go :D I think I’m personally rushing just a little too quick to “get good” but there’s a print i need to get done and hidden for a surprise and it’s a bit hard to stop someone walking into a room for a few hours!!
    Verity Gregory, 2018-01-08 19:30:53 +00:00
  4. I checked my slicer settings and my default profile is exactly what you have, just vary the infill per print as you would imagine. HOWEVER what I think I've found is my paper used to level the bed to nozzle is waaaaay too thin. Even doubled up. Tried a pretty thin business card and perfect first layer.

    Update: my print was perfect for about 5mm and then begins to start extruding very thin and stringy causing a failed print. Omitted detail, my flat is very cold. Would increasing the temp of the print a few degrees to compensate help?
    Verity Gregory, 2018-01-08 20:39:33 +00:00
  5. Dave brown
    Dave brown Member




    dont think temp increase will do any good, is the filament running through freely,
    Dave brown, 2018-01-09 11:26:02 +00:00
  6. Thanks for the pointers :) I’m trying a test print that varies flow rate from 106 down to 96. Then I’m going to do temp. Get a good print and the belt tighteners are top of the list!! I’ll double check the nozzle before I run them. It gives me confidence to know that people are having successes. I’ll get there :p great learning tool no doubt about that.
    Verity Gregory, 2018-01-09 20:05:40 +00:00
  7. Rick
    Rick Member Venice, FL
    I understand a good test for a clogged nozzle is to heat up the hot end and manually push filament through. It should extrude fairly easy and drop straight down.
    Rick, 2018-01-09 20:18:07 +00:00





  8. I always preheat and make sure the extrusion is good and not popping, just in case of moisture too. Heats up well and feeds out really easily.
    Verity Gregory, 2018-01-09 20:20:25 +00:00
  9. Thank you all for your input. I think I can catagorically say, my feed rate was wrong. I followed a YouTube tutorial that explained a cura plug in to vary the print by the z axis. So I made a rectangle about 80mm tall and at every 5mm changed the feed rate starting at 106 down to 96. I’ve not yet isolated the best bit, but it didn’t fail!!!

    After I confirm feed rate I’ll do the same test with temp. It’s only a quick print and completely hollow so very minimal filament usage. If anyone wants the link to the video it’s https://youtu.be/N-7uX6Dw-7A
    Verity Gregory, 2018-01-09 23:01:06 +00:00
    M0RAY. likes this.
    Attached files : image.jpg
  10. Update number two. So a bit of a lax Y belt was a MAJOR problem. However a bit of ingenuity and I have it tight again. So anyone new reading, its a tricky step, but make sure that bugger is tight!!!!!! Tight belt and lovely looking print. Very confident to finish my initial project.
    Verity Gregory, 2018-01-12 23:16:48 +00:00
  11. I see lot of good comments here. I found keeping the belts tight is important. The right side of the X axis can sometimes slide if it gets bumped and I have to slide it back out. I need to print the upgrades to adjust the belts. I found on the Y axis if I leave the screws on the idler side loose when I am attaching the belts I can tighten them up to get the belt nice and tight. Not too tight though or the motor starts getting slanted. And room temperature can make a difference in the quality of prints.
    Robert Emerson, 2018-01-17 17:27:01 +00:00
    M0RAY. likes this.
  12. M0RAY.
    M0RAY. Member SITTINGBOURNE, Kent.
    Photographs. I wish to make a hollow miniature bust of my head & shoulders and arms to put into a flying model aircraft. How do I do this please?
    M0RAY., 2018-07-16 23:51:48 +01:00
  13. M0RAY.
    M0RAY. Member SITTINGBOURNE, Kent.
    Hi there everyone.
    I'm a Newbie.
    I don't have a 3D Printer yet & I'm looking at getting a STARTT 3D PRINTER.
    I'm interested in making hollow items like models of Blackpool Tower/Ifull Tower with all cross members and girders showing through it. Is it possible to make/ print such items as this. I also needs to know if I can make/print an accurate mini 3D bust of myself that I can put into models that I build. I am also a photographer, so front, side, and rear views of myself are not a problem, or would I need something more complicated than a simple set of photographs to produce such a thing please .
    M0RAY., 2018-07-17 00:02:35 +01:00




  14. I use some software called reconstructme. It's free for home use but they charge for a license for commercial use (if you were selling them). Just have a Kinnect 360 connected to a PC. Load the drivers from Microsoft and then run the software. Spin around slowly in a chair and the 3D builder in Windows 10 is powerful enough to cut the bottom off flat and resize for whatever you need.
    Robert Emerson, 2018-07-17 17:51:08 +01:00
  15. M0RAY.
    M0RAY. Member SITTINGBOURNE, Kent.
    What is a Kinnect 360 please, .& how much is it please.?
    M0RAY., 2018-07-18 22:39:59 +01:00
  16. When I said Kinnect 360 I meant the 3D camera setup for a XBOX 360. With an adapter cable you can connect it by USB to a PC. I picked up a used camera and a new adapter cable on eBay. You can use the Kinnect camera for a XBOX One with the Windows 10 free 3D Scan and builder but it takes some heavy hardware.
    Robert Emerson, 2018-07-18 23:01:02 +01:00
  17. M0RAY.
    M0RAY. Member SITTINGBOURNE, Kent.
    Hi Robert,
    So it's just the Kinect 360 Sensor Bar thing, all that I need then, and the PC driver software for it. I don't have an Xbox gaming machine of any discription.
    I only have an Acer Laptop, ABOUT 18 MONTHS old with 8 Gigabytes of memory on it & I have yet to buy a STARTT 3D PRINTER.
    Is this Kinect 360 Sensor bar that I've seen on line for about £12 quid the 3D camera that I need?
    Many Thanks,
    Ray.
    M0RAY., 2018-07-19 02:34:34 +01:00
  18. The Kinnect 360 sensor bar I have came from eBay for around $50 us. And the adapter cable was around $10 us. The adapter comes with a power adapter and a usb cable to plug into the laptop. The reconstructme software seems to work well with nvidia and higher end intel video controllers. It uses a lot of gpu power for the 3D work and not as much cpu time then. If your PC can run video games well then it should be able to do 3D work. I have several 3D printers and have been happy with the startt printer. For it's size and cost it seems to print quite well.
    Robert Emerson, 2018-07-19 15:57:15 +01:00
  19. M0RAY.
    M0RAY. Member SITTINGBOURNE, Kent.





    Thanks Robert.
    Depending on the price of the licence payed version, I can see just about every member of the local model flying clubs coming to me for their head & shoulders model for their own aircraft flying models lol. What if they each just give a contribution for materials and running cost, as aposed to me charging with a profit in mind.?.
    And, I still don't yet have a STARTT 3D PRINTER yet.
    Ray.
    M0RAY., 2018-09-20 17:26:52 +01:00
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