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The story so far...
 STARTT   Started by firefly   2017-04-14 18:57:06 +01:00   Comments: 17    Viewed: 2451

  1. firefly
    firefly Member
    The short of it: I got more than my money's worth, in a good way.

    I received this printer kit about three weeks ago. It came nicely packaged with the motors and other delicate parts well protected. There was even a checklist of parts that someone had gone through to fill the box. This is my first 3D printer so I didn't know what to expect, and all the parts involved were foreign to me. I watched the videos a bit, and skimmed through the assembly instructions before starting anything. I got it assembled without much trouble by following the videos and the assembly guide. I did look ahead to make sure I was assembling the right parts and ended up fixing some of the instruction's errors before they became problems. For the parts that didn't depend the alignment of other parts, I tightened them well. For parts that do depend on others, I only tightened them firmly so that they can slide a bit when everything got fitted. After that, they all got a good tightening. Everything fits together well enough but there were situations where the holes are misaligned by a couple of millimeters but the parts did eventually tighten together slowly - don't force anything.

    The bed needs to have the four holes countersunk. A proper countersink bit or a large drill bit will get the job done.

    Cable management needs to be documented better. I ended up coiling everything together from the hot end to the PCB and loosely tied it mid-way to the left vertical rod. There's plenty of slack in the front for the bundle to move around. The rest of the cabling got loosely wrapped and rolled together and stays in the back out of the way. I'm thinking of adding a filament through the bundle so wires won't get kinked.

    The power supply that came with the kit didn't work. DOA. There wasn't any power coming out at all. Luckily, I had something that matched the required specs. A side note: I opened the PS and found that it was badly corroded and had patchwork done to it. In a way, I'm glad it didn't work.

    I followed the bed calibration instructions but found that the centre of the epoxy board isn't level with the four corners. I adjusted the corners to compensate for the centre. My first print was of a small project box I really needed - I mainly got this printer to print boxes for my electronics. I used a glue stick for adhesion and printed from the SD card. To my surprise, everything came out perfect. The sides of the box was smooth as silk, with the lid fitting dead on. The size of the box came out exactly as needed. Wow, that was easy!

    With that print out of the way, it's time to get to know the printer better:

    1. Z-axis sense switch is misaligned and the small bolt, even with a nut at its end, will inconsistently slide off of the switch's roller - the nut turns as it touches the roller, and it also turns from the vibration of the printing. I ended up locking two nuts together at the end of the bolt and it's been working fine.

    2. I have recycled power after each print so I don't know whether or not the Z-axis will be thrown off after the first print.

    3. After homing, I generally need to do a bit of Z-axis alignment adjustment. It's probably because of the epoxy board being removed for cleaning and the glue stick pushing down when being applied. The springs don't seem to always respring to the same height - I need to squeeze-bounce them a bit.

    4. I'm considering getting an aluminum or glass bed to replace the epoxy one. It would be nice to print on a flatter surface.

    5. I've looked over other postings in this forum and found mods for this printer. Maybe a larger print surface would be worth the effort.

    6. Auto Z-axis calibration would be nice but things are never that simple.

    7. With the power off, moving the bed at any speed will cause the motor to generate enough power to light the LCD a bit. Is this a problem?

    The adventure continues. Thanks for making this printer available.
    firefly, 2017-04-14 18:57:07 +01:00
  2. I'm gald that someone has gotten this to work.  Take a look at your free sites that have parts to print.  Search for Anet A8 and see what parts would help you with z-axis alignment.  I'm thinking the Tronyx XY 100 and this is the same.  They use the same parts as the Anet and looks like this printer also.  The alignment bracket and switch bracket helps spot the same thing happening on it so i'm thinking it would help also here.  Have fun printing

    Donald Wadkins, 2017-04-14 20:34:05 +01:00
  3. firefly
    firefly Member

    I finally got around to multiple prints without cycling power. The print starts off homing correctly but the first layer started about 3cm above the bed. I pulled the plug, powered it back up and started the same print. This time it printed fine. Maybe a firmware update can fix this?
    Wow, any way to edit my original post? Some how all the formatting got removed.
    firefly, 2017-04-16 18:15:40 +01:00
  4. firefly
    firefly Member
    I've printed off the display spacers from the link below. The spacers properly mount the LCD display and provides support when the screws are tightened. Before, I could see all the pins and circuitry getting sandwiched. With the spacers, everything is nicely fitted and the buttons are now flush with the front bezel and much more user friendly to press.

    https://github.com/fablabnbg/tronxy-xy100

    firefly, 2017-04-20 03:58:43 +01:00
  5. firefly
    firefly Member
    Printing on the not-so flat epoxy board has been driving me nuts. The center of the thing isn't flat with the rest of the corners - I either have a high center or a low one, depending on which side is used. I ended up replacing that with a piece of glass from a cheap picture frame from the "dollar store". I also picked up a roll of painter's tape since I figure the glass won't be able to take the flexing of the epoxy board with the glue stick that I've been using with it. The glass bed is now leveling so easily, and the tape has been reused a couple of times already. The first layer goes on solid using "brim". $5 well spent.
    firefly, 2017-04-25 03:00:57 +01:00
    Jack Keum likes this.
  6. Norm Huntley
    Norm Huntley Member




     fyi you can buy nylon spacers at Lowe's
    Norm Huntley, 2017-04-25 12:24:04 +01:00
  7. reddadsteve
    reddadsteve Member Flanders
    I printed and installed the spacers last night.  It really cleans up the LCD area very nicely.  The buttons are much easier to use as well.
    It should be noted that some of the spacers have a notch in them to fit properly without pressing against the circuit board.  Installing flat nylon spacers all around would not work properly.
    reddadsteve, 2017-04-25 14:57:10 +01:00
    John T. likes this.
  8. Norm Huntley
    Norm Huntley Member




      they have them in different dia. and thickness work perfectly on mine.
    Norm Huntley, 2017-04-25 15:31:19 +01:00
  9. I too had trouble with the Z-axis the nuts were hopelessly out of line, was going to print another set. But it was going to take too long so took the complete X-axis Assembly to work clamped it in the vice by the X-axis rails to keep everything square. Checked how out of square they were Motor end was 0.5mm out from one side to other the other end was 0.3mm out. So machined 2 Times 20mm pockets 0.5 deep. Have just reassembled everything and all working fine. Just printed off the elephant statue and very impressed. Now going to try and print spacers for display.
    Stuart Marshall, 2017-04-25 21:55:03 +01:00
    firefly and Jack Keum likes this.
  10. James Somers
    James Somers Member
    My only problem was the mounts for the motors were quite loose as the screws were longer than acrylic was thick. A few paper gaskets between the motors and base and all was firm and secure. Spacers for the display is a great idea.
    James Somers, 2017-04-27 01:06:25 +01:00
  11. firefly
    firefly Member





    I didn't have any play with the motor mounts. All the screws can be firmly tightened without needing washers. Verify you're using the right screws?
    firefly, 2017-04-27 01:35:15 +01:00
  12. I have printed and installed spacers looks great. I also had problems with the screw lengths I think the problem lies with the acrylic I think it should be 6.00mm thick not 5.3mm as mine was Icut my screw down using a cheap pair of wire crimpers. Anyone know how to post photos?
    Stuart Marshall, 2017-04-27 06:55:45 +01:00
  13. James Somers
    James Somers Member
    Right screws but I suspect same problem with the spacers Stuart had as the acrylic is not as thick as it should be. The motors were tight on the 3d printed parts but just a little wiggle next to acrylic - that difference between 6.0 and 5.3 is about two business cards.
    James Somers, 2017-04-27 07:35:00 +01:00
  14. John T.
    John T. Member Aurora, IL
    The spacers are a great idea (I was worried about my board until I read this thread) should definitely be included in future kits by iMakr (well, whoever makes them for iMakr, anyhow.)
    John T., 2017-04-27 18:01:05 +01:00
  15. John T.
    John T. Member Aurora, IL
    The spacers are fantastic - just as you guys already said, they made the entire LCD screen assembly far more stable with the added benefit of better screen and button alignment so that they're actually acting like buttons rather than weird joysticks.

    I do have a question for y'all, though: what are all the "extra" spacers for?  I only used less than half of what I printed from the link: https://github.com/fablabnbg/tronxy-xy100

    Does the actual Tronxy have more boards and such or something?
    John T., 2017-05-01 15:31:32 +01:00
  16. firefly
    firefly Member
    I picked up a 2mm thick carbon fibre plate to replace the picture frame glass I've been printing on. PLA doesn't stick to CF without a heated bed so I'm still using painter's tape, but the advantage of using CF over glass is that it won't break when flexed. My prints are now easily popping off with a simple flex of the plate. The plate is super flat so leveling is a breeze, just like it was with glass.
    firefly, 2017-05-29 14:51:27 +01:00
  17. The essence of the problem is that there is an instagram account. There are 600 publications. You need to add likes to all publications at once without entering the link of each post to any service, as it is very dreary, you may have some option in the form of auto comments for your Instagram profile but that not only new ones but the old ones also liked huskies, a naturally different amount, but in a certain amount, maybe someone can use their hands for a reasonable price (familiar with the market prices)
    Vondes vondes, 2019-03-17 15:04:00 +00:00
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