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Petg filament
 STARTT   Started by Randy Solomon   2017-05-22 02:50:07 +01:00   Comments: 8    Viewed: 1641

  1. I have been using petg filament in my startt printer and it seems to work well. Most manufactures of petg do not require a heated bed. The only minor issue is getting it to stay stuck to the bed on long thin parts, a raft stops this problem.

    The next issue I have is when I start a second print it starts at the height of the first print. My work around is to shut it off after every print, kind of annoying. Does anyone have an idea to fix this problem?

    Randy Solomon, 2017-05-22 02:50:07 +01:00
  2. Antonio Salotti Neto
    Antonio Salotti Neto Member Campinas, SP
    Hi Randy, I don't have a solution for you, but I can tell you are not the only one having that problem: others have reported the same on a different thread. I don't have the time to look for the link just now but I'll do it later and get it to you -- they might have found a fix, but I'm not sure...
    Antonio Salotti Neto, 2017-05-22 20:51:02 +01:00
  3. I am just re-booting between prints.  Just one of the qurks of the printer, they all have at least one.
    Randy Solomon, 2017-06-01 17:01:21 +01:00
  4. firefly
    firefly Member
    It's a firmware bug that's causing the displaced Z level. It's become a habit to just cycle power after each print.
    firefly, 2017-06-02 02:46:40 +01:00
  5. Rick
    Rick Member Venice, FL
    I'm a 3d printer newbe. I just started printing with PETG after printing a bit with PLA. I'm using black priline at $21.95 kg from Amazon. The first few prints I used the raft option. The raft stuck very well but the parts separated from the raft once. on other prints when I removed the parts from the print surface the part would separate from the raft way too easy then I had a tough time getting the raft to separate. So now I print without the raft and that works so much better. I use the blue painters tape with hair spray. When printing tall thin objects I put the hair spray down fairly thick and it sticks almost too much. I read that 235 C is a good temperature with 100% flow and the parts look great but I wonder about the layer strength because of the raft issues. I did try to set the flow at 98% in Cura but that didn't show when printing.

    Any thoughts?
    Rick, 2017-12-01 02:53:55 +00:00
  6. Why cant i see this?
    Vinny Mattson, 2018-09-10 21:12:29 +01:00
  7. Kevin cools
    Kevin cools Member

    In de Cura slicer program you must set the start GCODE(printer settings):
    G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
    G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops

    This will homing the nozzle.
    Kevin cools, 2018-10-25 10:48:44 +01:00

  8. Hi Rick,

    There is a way to fix the print from coming off the raft by adjusting Cura for STARTT settings. If you go to Build Plate Adhesion Type under the custom settings, click the gear that is next to the drop-down arrow. A settings box will pop up, and you want to check the box labeled "Raft Air Gap". The setting will appear on the right of the screen along with the other settings. Adjust this value lower so that your model prints on top of the raft. Don't put it too small as your model will be too hard to remove afterward. Mine is currently set to 0.2mm but this can vary depending on many factors, including model and filament type. Adjust this value until you find the right setting for your print. This setting adjusts the space between the raft's top layer and the first layer of your print.

    Hope this helps,

    Yadunandan Vijayaraman
    Yadunandan Vijayaraman, 2018-11-23 17:43:34 +00:00
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